Why We Love: Cappadocia, Turkey
Fairy chimneys, magical dawn balloon rides, great day hikes and excellent rug shopping
Where is it?
Sitting high upon an ancient otherworldly plateau in the central Taurus Mountains, and a quick ninety minute flight south of Istanbul, Cappadocia is one of Turkey’s most jaw-dropping destinations and one you really shouldn’t miss if you’re spending any time in the country.
Why go?
Because nowhere else on this planet will you find the million-year-old lava formations romantically called “fairy chimneys” that dot the landscape, making every vista feel like Middle Earth on the moon. Because Cappadocia is a vast preserve of natural wonders with marvels like secret cave churches carved out of rock and massive underground cities that you can explore today. Because at the break of dawn every morning, dozens of hot air balloons majestically float across a not-to-be-believed Technicolor sky to a chorus of chirping birds. Because the entire region is a UNESCO Heritage site and wonderfully navigable, whether on foot, horseback, ATV, or classic convertible (yes).
When?
Turkey has very hot summers and very cold winters, so March, April, May, and September are the optimum months to visit. Pro Tip: If you can wait until slightly off-season October or November and don’t mind a bit of mild winter weather (perfect for hiking, we think!), you’ll score much better hotel rates and won’t be bothered by peak summer tourist crowds.
What town should I stay in?
We strongly believe the central village of Goreme is the perfect base for exploring Cappadocia and here’s why: It’s situated right in the middle of Cappadocia, making the archaeological sites and hikes easy to get to (you can walk to the UNESCO World Heritage Open Air Museum, for example), has dozens of little restaurants and artisan boutiques and offers the best views over the valley of the dawn hot air balloon rides (truly a sight to behold). Plus, being able to stroll into town is vital — days start and end early in Cappadocia, so you’ll most likely have evenings free. We were going to stay a few miles farther out in a five-star Relais & Châteaux hotel until we realized we would be stuck taking a taxi if we wanted to go anywhere.
Our Favorite Hotel:
You’ll want to stay in one of Cappadocia’s signature cave hotels but here’s what no one will tell you: Cave rooms are often damp and dark, with small windows and few views. We much preferred the tower rooms at the Luvi Cave Hotel which offered incredible panoramic views of the entire surrounding plateau and hot air balloons at dawn. Plus, the Luvi is an easy two-minute wander to downtown Goreme for a bit of liveliness and shopping when you fancy it.
Runners Up: Koza Cave Hotel // Sultan Cave Suites
Our Two Favorite Rug Shops:
Don’t miss the gorgeous Galerie Ikman in the center of Goreme; despite its IG fame, we found the owners to be kind and more than willing to strike a good deal. If haggling is not your thing, go straight to Tribal Collections just up the street. Run by Australian expat Ruth Lockwood, this small shop sells a wonderful selection of kilim pillows, rugs, ottomans and more at very reasonable fixed prices. Side Note: Rug shops in Cappadocia get first dibs on selections as most of them are fabricated in nearby regional workshops. Prices here are also much lower than in the Istanbul bazaars — where real estate and markup is stratospheric.
Our Two Favorite Day Hikes:
Pigeon Valley with its phallic Valley of Love, and Rose Valley with its secret Byzantine-era cave churches like Kolonlu Kilise. Hire a local guide to take you first thing in the morning — most tourists opt to do the hot air balloons so you’ll likely have the valley to yourself.
Our Favorite Underground Cave Complex:
Derinkuyu, because you can go deeper down and the rooms and passageways are wider. At Kaymakli, the ceilings are lower and the tunnels are smaller, with some even requiring you to navigate them doubled over, problematic if you are prone to claustrophobia and crowds.
For Your Notes:
Getting There: Coming from Istanbul, you need to fly into either Nevesir or Kayseri. Nevesir is closer to Cappadocia but only offers one flight a day. Kayseri has five.
E-visa: You need an e-visa to enter Turkey, but you can get one online here and it takes only a few minutes to fill out. Processing time is usually 1-2 days, so can be done last-minute if need be.
You’ll need a car to get around Cappadocia and hiring a car and driver is the best way to go. Your hotel can usually assist you with this. As for guides, definitely hire one if you’re planning on hiking - they know where all the secret cave churches are and can plan the best route for you. Hiring a guide ahead of time saves you the hassle of having to hire one on the spot at archaeological sites as well.
— Lisa Borgnes Giramonti
Another one for the bucket list - Cappadocia looks incredible! Beautiful photos as well.
Must see Must Go x