Where to Stay: Favorite Soulful Hotels
A Himalayan hideaway; a manor house in Michoacán; and an otherworldly convent-turned-hotel tucked into the countryside
Once in awhile a hotel gets it so right—creating a world of its own, starring heartfelt, personality-driven details you didn’t even know you needed—that it’s inextricably entwined with the destination, sometimes even becoming the destination itself. To round out our list of 10 extra-special, soulful stays, we asked a few highly discriminating travel experts whose opinions and compasses we value to share their favorites. Most of these are not luxurious in the conventional sense of today’s five-star hotel scene; instead, expect signs of time, character and idiosyncratic (often rustic) beauty. A few even come with price tags less than $200/night.
Up first is Alex Postman’s magical experience at an out-of-time manor house in Mexico—“one of the most special hotels I have stayed in anywhere, ever, owned by a madly talented Frenchman.” And this really means something, considering Alex is the deputy editor at YOLO Journal and previously features director at Condé Nast Traveler.
Casa de la Real Aduana, Pátzcuaro, Mexico
I had long wanted to visit Pátzcuaro, a “pueblo mágico” in the state of Michoacán in central Mexico, and finally got there about two years ago. Maybe best known for its candlelit Day of the Dead ceremony on the lake (which inspired the setting for the Pixar movie, Coco), the region is also a hub of traditional craftsmanship, with several villages ringing the shore, each with its distinct ancestral craft tradition: pottery, lacquer, woven straw, copper, woodworking and more. Casa de la Real Aduana, which occupies a 16th-century stone manor house in town, couldn’t have been a more perfect home for our stay. The owners, French photographer and artist Didier Dorval and his Mexican wife, Gemma Macouzet, are devoted collectors with the most incredible taste. It truly feels like you’re sleeping in their home, cluttered with patinated European antiques and oil paintings that they shipped here more than two decades ago, and public spaces filled with a museum’s worth of local ceramics, textiles, masks, candelabras, books, and Spanish-colonial style religious statuary. Each of the five guest rooms is grand yet completely idiosyncratic; ours had a painted religious fresco on the domed ceiling. The owners are very present, hospitable and hands-on—one night we joined them and some friends visiting from France for a candlelit dinner (with several bottles of Bordeaux poured) in the library; another time, Didier sat us down in his listening room, where he played jazz and classical on incredible speaker system from his wildly extensive CD and record collection. Be sure to ask him for a tour of his light-filled studio, where you can peruse (or buy) his work—he might even be moved to play you a song on his baby grand. —Alex Postman, Deputy Editor, YOLO Journal
Hotel Convento de São Paulo, Redondo, Portugal
A labyrinthine countryside convent
An otherworldly hotel sensitively tucked into a magnificent hillside monastery. We have sent so many people here, and they all come back with the same sense of awe. Located deep in the Alentejo countryside, this nearly 1,000-year-old stone monastery is soulful, real, and best of all, it hasn’t been White Lotus-ed. In other words, the whole sweeping scene hasn't been sanitized to false perfection. You might see a cracked tile here or a weathered crumble of masonry there, and these perfectly imperfect details are part of what makes this hotel so staggeringly beautiful. Frankincense oil lamps are hand-lit each evening, along with fires in the many fireplaces. There are cozy sitting rooms and hidden terraces with Florentine fountains and secret swimming pools and strange beautiful alcoves angled toward a view that hasn’t changed in centuries. Corridors lined in antique azulejo tiles stretch out endlessly before you no matter which direction you turn.
Berghotel Ladinia, Corvara, Italy
The ultimate Ladin fairytale
A folksy little mountain inn in the Dolomites where stairs creak, red alpine geraniums spill from window boxes; and old armoires and doors are hand-painted in traditional Ladin patterns. Everyone who works there wears traditional dress, including the owner, who regularly stops by on his modified Segway wearing very well-worn lederhosen to chat up the guests. If this all sounds like a set for the next Wes Anderson film, know that the aesthetic is distinctly original to this special corner of the world (minus the Segway), and the experience of staying here, especially for more than a couple days, feels like slipping back into the simple past. Read our full post about this magical place.
The Happy House, Phaplu, Eastern Himalayas
A Nepalese paradise
This is a place that is often whispered about in my world of travel— shared only with those who would truly appreciate its beauty and kindness. Nepal is not a country where you stick to a scripted itinerary, and oh how refreshing it is to come here and let loose of old habits. Mother Nature has its own way of deciding. For the right traveler with a curious mind and an open heart (and legs willing to hike), this country is such a special destination, and The Happy House, with its hand-painted Himalayan designs and communal dinners by candlelight, the most exquisite home away from home. —Vanessa Boz, travel extraordinaire, BozAround Private Travel
Hotel Union Oye, Norangsfjorden, Norway
An historic Norwegian fjord hotel
One of Norway’s most legendary hotels. There are 27 rooms, all different, most named after past guests. Design-wise, it’s a total work of art, from the antique lace trim outlining a shelf of pewter silverware to the carved painted bedsteads displaying Norway’s rosemaling craft tradition to the unifying color scheme (plenty of fjord blues and mossy greens) which echoes the world beyond your window. —Lisa Borgnes Giramonti
Su Gologone, Oliena, Italy
A third-generation ode to Sardinian tradition
The very special and deeply soulful Su Gologone—an “experience hotel” in the wild and mountainous region of Barbagia. If you’re someone who is very into food, love a family-owned property (opened in 1967, third generation, run by women!) that is very dal cuore (from the heart), put this high on your list. —Yolanda Edwards, YOLO Journal
Virunga Lodge, Colline Gakoro, Rwanda
A conservation-forward Lodge
Volcanoes Safaris Virunga Lodge is perched atop a ridge overlooking the Virunga Volcanoes, Musanze Valley, Lake Bulera and Lake Ruhondo. Watching the sunrise over the lakes, sipping my morning coffee; it was one of the most beautiful moments of travel I’ve ever experienced. I was in awe at Rwanda’s natural beauty, and how the lodge fits so seamlessly into the landscape. There are ten hand-built bandas, and the design and furnishings are simple and cozy, yet elegant. Conservation is at the core of everything they do, and as the original gorilla lodge in Rwanda, they take that commitment very seriously. —Christine Chitnis, travel writer (and author of Patterns of Portugal and Patterns of India)
Sterrekopje Farm, Franschhoek, South Africa
A nature-focused healing farm
In the heart of the winelands within driving distance of Cape Town, this healing farm is a beautiful and nurturing paradise spread across 125 acres of nature (from chakra, medicinal garden, and edible gardens, plus orchard and on-site apothecary), where every detail has been thoughtfully considered. The project of a lifetime for two female Dutch partners (in love and work), they have brought back to life an incredible farm to host spiritual, creative and restorative stays. Or it can be rented in its entirety for a moment suspended in time. —Vanessa Boz, BozAround Private Travel (note: if you book through her, you’ll get the best price and service)
La Colombe d’Or, Saint-Paul-de-Vence, France
An historic artist haven
Definitely not a secret, but one of those extraordinary places that lives up to its storied reputation. The small, soulful auberge and restaurant in the medieval village of Saint-Paul de Vence is an institution, and you can feel the history and heart in the time-worn communal spaces. The owner used to trade works of art for room and board, hosting the likes of Matisse and Picasso, laying the foundation for a wild collection that still decorates the stone walls todoay—or, in the case of the Calder, the pool. It’s still being run by the Roux family, which is a marvel in itself.
Burel Mountain Hotels, Manteigas, Portugal
Portuguese mountain hotels
Consisting of two sepearate houses in different locations, Burel Mountain Hotels in Manteigas are some of my favorite hotels in the countryside of Portugal. The design is incredibly thoughtful and cozy. Incorporating their own textiles, which are manufactured nearby, Burel supports the culture and people of the region. Nestled in the heart of the Serra Estrela mountains, it’s a perfect winter or summer nature escape. I love the small touches, including their welcome notes, with suggested walking trails to explore surrounding the hotel. It's a business model I wish more would follow. And if you go, be sure to visit their factory in the heart of Manteigas. —Annie Waterman, AOW Handmade