Two Days in the Dolomites: Merano, Italy

Enchanting 19th century hotels, thermal baths, cobblestone streets, and a special Alpine restaurant reachable only by foot

The old clock tower. The Passer River, flanked by promenades and shops.

When it comes to the Italian Alps, somehow the Europeans have kept Merano a well-kept secret from most Americans, who often think of jetset Cortina or ski-mad Madonna di Campiglio first. Tucked into the dramatic Dolomite mountains in the South Tyrol region of northern Italy, multicultural Merano has the Austrian charm of its sister city, Salzburg, with a grandissimo helping of Mediterranean dolce vita and Alpine hospitality. When the first health sanatorium opened in 1840, the town quickly became heralded for the benefits of its mild climate, healthy food, and mineral springs (with no less than Empress Sisi becoming a fervent repeat visitor). With its fairytale architecture, enchanting 19th-century hotels, and cobblestone streets, Merano is a holdover to its gracious past and a well-placed home base for exploring the UNESCO World Heritage Dolomites. It's a perfect stop for any European itinerary, even if you only have 36 hours (like I did last week)—but I can't promise you won't leave a bit of your heart there.