Top Tile-gawking Spots in Lisbon

Fantastical gardens and grottos with mythological sea creatures, in-situ scenes at preserved monasteries, and a wildly eccentric house-turned-ceramics-museum

Walk down most any street in Lisbon and you’ll see walls glimmering with azulejos, the traditional Portuguese tiles that are the design icon of the city. Originally used to protect buildings from heat and salty sea air, these ceramic facades diffuse the suns rays and cast a flattering sparkle over everything. It’s partly for this reason that Lisbon is known as the City of Light and adored by painters and photographers.

After a recent azulejo deep-dive in Lisbon, these three prime tile-gazing sites—plus a bonus detour—made our super-picky list of the best of the best.

THE GARDEN

Jardim Fronteira: Best fantastical old-world gardens dripping with mythological azulejos

If you only have time for one tile-specific stop, let it be Jardim Fronteira, a 17th-century hunting lodge turned poetic dreamland. If you have even a passing interest in decadent gardens and grandiose palaces covered with fantastical scenes and unusual tiles, THIS IS THE PLACE.

Bordering Monsanto Park and only a short taxi ride from the city center, the 12-acre estate has a magnificent tiled folly set in a boxwood garden studded with fountains, statues, and a pool with two resident black swans. Climb the stairs to the Terrace of Kings lined with busts of former monarchs. Then wander over to the stone pavilion dedicated to the sea deities and encrusted with shells and glazed china plates (reportedly from a banquet so unforgettable the host memorialized them for posterity.)

On every wall, azulejo tiles tell stories of knights errant, mythological creatures, and mischievous animals. The descendants of the original Marquis da Fronteira still live on the lower floor of the house, 13th-generation caretakers of this elegant lost paradise. (You can tour the house as well but to us the magic is in the garden.) 

THE MUSEUM

National Tile Museum: A singular experience in the history of tiles and tile-making in Portugal, period. Do not miss.

From the outside, the Museu do Azulejo looks like just another museum but trust us when we say the splendor inside will take your breath away. Housed in a former monastery, the museum’s tile galleries are arranged chronologically around a gorgeous stone cloister. But for us, the real jewel is the Madre de Deus chapel, a jaw-dropping gilt and tiled Baroque fantasy that makes the Sistine Chapel seem vanilla in comparison.

In the choir balcony directly above, spooky reliquaries display the bones of martyrs behind glass panels. Also on the upper floor is the priceless 23-meter-long tile panorama of Lisbon, the most complete record of what the city looked like before its devastating 1755 earthquake. Look closely and you can spot some buildings with smoking kilns where the azulejos tiles you are currently looking at were made. 

THE MONASTERY

Monastery of Sao Vincente de Fora: A serene 16th-century monastery with pristine in-situ azulejo scenes and a view some swear is the best in Lisbon.

Dedicated to the patron saint of Lisbon, the Monastery of Sao Vincente da Fora contains the world’s largest collection of Baroque azulejo tiles and is a welcome oasis from the commotion of the city (especially during cruise ship season). Don’t worry about reading every inscription; this is a place where walking slowly and soaking up the atmosphere is just as important. In the entrance hall, take in the panels of former monarchs, the flamboyant painted ceiling, and the marble mosaic floor buffed to a shine by millions of footsteps. Then head toward the central cloister with its azulejo-lined hallways detailing scenes of Portuguese history. Poke your head into the sacristy to the side of it — it’s a barely contained riot of floor-to-ceiling inlaid marble. In contrast, the soaring church with its austere simplicity, and the intimate Braganza Chapel with its hush of centuries, are places for pause and introspection. When you’ve seen all these, rejoin civilization by climbing the stairs to the rooftop and taking in the stunning views of old Lisbon and the Tagus river.

THE DETOUR

Museo da Ceramica: An enchanting field trip to a former viscount’s ceramic-bedecked folly turned ceramics museum in Caldas da Raihna.

If you are as dedicated to the exploration of unsung, wildly eccentric ceramic-filled house museums with nary another visitor as we are, this field trip just one hour north of Lisbon is a mandatory stop. The house itself is an architectural whimsy, built in 1898 to mimic one much older, and plastered with rocks, tiles, and ceramic gargoyles lurking under the eaves. It’s very much a case of “The more you look, the more you see.” As well the gardens: everywhere you turn there’s a ceramic-tiled bench, fountain, planter, statue, or wall—including one particularly charming ivy-covered wall with a ceramic ode to a single night of revelry held in these very gardens.

Inside, this utterly charming house museum—a little rough around the edges in all the right ways—is full of fantastical ceramics from famed cartoonist-turned-ceramicist Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro. You know Pinheiro’s iconic green cabbage plates from countless design magazines; his pieces here include surreal oddities like a lizard monk, a giant oyster shell, and a vase swarming with bees. Bonus: There is a Bordalo Pinheiro outlet directly across the street that sells his distinctive cabbage kitchenware at super reasonable prices; leave room in your carry-on to bring something home. 

For Your Notes:

1. SLEEP: In Lisbon, we stayed at the gorgeous Palacio Ludovice, an 18th century palace sensitively restored to its former glory. Of course, original tile abounds. (More info on this hotel in a future post.) Rua de Sao Pedro de Alcantara 39-49, Principe Real

2. SHOP: Solar Antiques in the Principe Real neighborhood is the place to go for a lesson in antique azulejo tiles. The New York Times declared it one of the 12 Treasures of Europe. Tile prices reflect their rarity—most from 15th-19th century and salvaged from historic buildings—but we spotted a few small ones that would have made a lovely memento (and are guaranteed to be salvaged not stolen). Rua D. Pedro V 70, Principe Real

3. EAT: We thank our lucky stars we were tipped off to Tapas Bar 52. Tiny and crowded with friendly locals, it’s a squeeze but that’s part of the charm. Authentic Portuguese small plates, a cheery staff who make you feel instantly at home, and likely a soccer (futbol) game on in the background.  Rua D. Pedro V 52, Principe Real