The Way It Was (And Still Is): Varanasi, India
A singular primer to navigating this poetic city, from a magical dawn boat ride to a moonlit ganga aarti ceremony, textile village and nearby Buddhist pilgrimage
Sacred cows, rusty red temples, moonlit aarti ceremonies, Hindu pilgrims purifying themselves on the ghats — it’s all here in glorious chaotic Varanasi. A word up front: If you crave peace, cleanliness, and your own personal space, this town is not for you. If, however, you are willing to embrace the messy, colorful, and stirring power of one of the oldest (5000 years and counting) and most profoundly spiritual places on the planet, this City of Light will occupy permanent residence in your heart.