The Dark Romance of Strasbourg

Alsatian timbered houses, a blood-red Gothic cathedral, atmospheric 16th century restaurants, and one of our favorite craft museums

I’m straight-up saying it: Some towns are as just beautiful when the weather is gloomy, and Strasbourg, France is one of them. Yes, of course, the city’s colorful timbered houses are picture-book pretty in sunlight, but the shadow palette of inclement weather really brings out the medieval soul of this town. Those Gothic spires, that blood-red cathedral stone, that forest of vertiginous gable roofs, it’s as if the past has forgotten to die here. Should you visit when a chill wind sweeps the land, like we did, consider yourself lucky.

Old Strasbourg is quite small and easily navigable and the Petite France neighborhood, located along the canals of the River Ill, is where you’ll want to spend most of your time. Home to tanners and fishermen in the Middle Ages, the narrow alleys are now filled with shops and restaurants like the famous Maison des Tanneurs whose time-mellowed wooden interior and authentic French-German Alsatian fare will drop you straight into the 16th century.

The famous Ponts Couverts (Covered Bridges), also in Petite France, aren’t covered anymore, but the name remains. Snap a photo of the famous tiny house between them — perched on its own little island, with the cathedral spire in the distance, it’s impossibly charming, even in winter.

Pro Tip: Set your alarm for an early morning walk through Petite France; as you can see from my photos, you will have the city virtually to yourself.

There’s so much to discover here, from the steeply gabled houses, each one more colorful and charming than the next, to the countless little shops laden with traditional Alsatian wares like these lovely blue-and-white ceramic vessels and plaid table linens.

We stayed at the Hotel de Corbeau and loved it. Steps from the cathedral and tucked inside a cobblestone courtyard, it’s one of the oldest hotels in all of Europe (it first opened as an inn in 1528). Not many hotels can say Voltaire slept here.

Spread out across ten historic timbered buildings, you must navigate a thrilling maze of bridges and passageways to get from one house to another. Design lovers will appreciate the red doors whose hue was painstakingly copied from an original pigment discovered on site.

Crossing a lovely little cobblestone square about a five minute walk from the cathedral, we spied Le Cornichon Masqué and were charmed by its intimate atmosphere (timbered ceilings, small capacity) and simple, delicious Alsatian fare.

At night, the Cathedral of Our Lady of Strasbourg, with its mix of 11th century Romanesque and 14th century Gothic architecture, casts a golden glow over the city.

Go back during the day to see the stone gargoyles and flying buttresses up close and climb the 330 spiral stairs to the roof platform — nowhere else will give you such a soaring rooftop view of the city (on fine days you can see all the way to the Black Forest). The astronomical clock inside the cathedral is a wunderkammer of 18th century automata with a crowing rooster and procession of apostles. You can see the clock for free (except from 11-2pm when you need a ticket for the daily 12:30 show.)

Photos by Mathieu Bertola via.

Strasbourg has no shortage of elegant museums but the charming Alsatian Museum, housed in a higgledy piggledy maze of timbered residences, is ground zero for craft heritage and local folk art.

It’s a disorientingly kooky experience to tour this museum. Arrows lead you from room to room, up a wonky set of stairs, then outside along a passageway, then inside under a low doorway, then down steps, each room more fascinating than the next. Vintage textiles, hand-carved furniture, rural folk costumes, painted ceramics, they’re all here.

We loved these wood samples painted in Alsace’s iconic color palette and stenciled with decorative patterns used locally.

Everywhere, the beauty of everyday objects reigns.

For Your Notes:

1. Strasbourg is a museum town; there’s a wonderful link HERE with essential info on each one. For an overview of the city’s ancient underpinnings, a visit to the Historical Museum is highly recommended.

2. Where to Stay: If you’re after a more luxe experience than the Cour de Corbeau, try Les Haras, built in Louis XIV’s former stable complex. Think ancient oak floors, brass tub fittings, and authentic saddle leather from Hermés.

3. Where to Eat: Next time I’m definitely going to Maison Kammerzell opposite the cathedral. A richly decorated timbered house dating back to 1427, it’s widely considered one of the most beautiful brasserie restaurants in the world. According to their website, you can also sleep here; as they put it, “Our XVI century spiral staircase is all there is between your plate and your pillow.”

   

— Lisa Borgnes Giramonti