Deep Dive: Grottaglie, Puglia

A day in Puglia’s most iconic craft village: generations of craftsmanship, ceramics magic, and archaeological finds

In Grottaglie—arguably the most iconic pottery village in Italy—there are ceramics everywhere you look: piles stacked in corners, built into the walls, tiles fronting steps, workshop after workshop with overflowing shelves. There are more than 50 (mostly family-run) shops, many built into the caves and grottoes for which the town is named. Puglia is a place where tradition runs deep, and in many ways, despite the contemporary boundaries being pushed inside the studios, Grottaglie can still feel like a portal into the past. With the official DOC designation, it’s a working craft village where craftsmen (and some women) have been handing down this ancient craft for more than 1,000 years.

The first time I visited, I made the beginner’s mistake of arriving in the afternoon (the town all but shuts down from 12.30-4pm), and I was in a frenzy trying to find studios that were still open. I’ve been back several times since, each time digging a little deeper. When you make an effort to ask thoughtful questions and linger, guards come down and big personalities give way to tenderness. At some of the smaller galleries, the potter who sits at the wheel (and glazes and unloads the kiln) is the same person who sits behind the cash register, opening access to that intimate space between artisan and consumer.

On Navigating

This town is for strolling, but beware: the more you see, the more you want to see. It’s like a self-perpetuating maze of color, shape and tactile pleasure. Go slowly, and let curiosity and conversations lead the way. Insomuch as the clay takes on the personality of its maker, every piece has a distinct style, and every shop is a world of its own. You’ll see a lot of repeat patterns and traditional pieces, but take notice of glaze differences and sublte style variations—the curve of a handle, the frilly rim of a bowl, the artistry of the decoration.

Bottega Vestita