Beautiful Ruins: Turkey's Ancient Wonders
Fairy chimneys, hidden cave churches, underground cities, pink statues at dawn, and the mysterious prehistoric temple complex that's rewriting history
An hour’s flight southeast from Istanbul, Cappadocia is famous for its surreal lava rock formations and scenic balloon rides, but its historical attractions go many layers deeper than that, including literally underground. On a recent trip, we had a chance to explore this ancient region before continuing our pilgrimage eastward to Turkish Mesopotamia and the towns of Gaziantep, Sanliurfa, and Mardin. Most tourists see Istanbul and then head for Turkey’s Mediterranean or Aegean coasts, but we think the southeast part of the country is highly underrated (in addition to being less crowded and less expensive).
PIGEON VALLEY AND ROSE VALLEY / CAPPADOCIA
Our first morning, we did a guided walk through Pigeon Valley, so-called because of all the elaborately painted pigeon houses carved into the cliffs. (Tip: Most tourists hike in the afternoon, so if you go during morning balloon time, you will likely have the valley to yourself.) After a gently sloping descent into the canyon, we found ourselves in a verdant paradise of sweet-smelling cherry, quince, and apricot trees, with Cappadocia’s iconic “fairy chimneys” at every turn. Formed millions of years ago from volcanic ash and eroded over eons, these pointy formations soar as high as 120 feet and give the area its distinct Middle Earth feel.